Tuanku Muhammad with his ‘banteras’.

Tuanku Abdul Rahman with Tunku Abdul Rahman Putra (left) and Sir Donald MacGillivray on Aug 5, 1957.

THE

Tunku Besar Seri Menanti Tunku Ali Redhauddin ibni Tuanku Muhriz inspects the royal regalia to be used for the installation yesterday.

This week I had the opportunity to retrace the final stages of that fateful journey which took place over two centuries ago. Dozens of kayakers traversed the Straits of Malacca – possibly expending more energy in the process than Raja Melewar’s rowers did – to re-enact the migration of the prince who was to become the first Ruler of a new unified kingdom of nine states called Negri Sembilan. The crossing was to be repeated by his two successors: Yamtuan Hitam and Yamtuan Lenggang, who reigned at a time when rivalry between the Bugis, Dutch and Javanese resulted in convoluted political power play and routinely escalated into armed conflict.

During the reign of Yamtuan Raden, open war with the British ultimately resulted in the loss of Naning, and by the time Yamtuan Imam ascended the throne the state had fragmented further. After Yamtuan Antah ascended the throne there was further violence as the British made inroads into the Malay Peninsula, not content with confining their influence within the Straits Settlements. This was the War of Bukit Putus of 1875, which took place between Yamtuan Antah’s forces at Seri Menanti and the British at Sungai Ujong. The initial battles went very well for Yamtuan Antah: he defeated the British at Terachi and again on Bukit Putus itself. His soldiers made it right up to the east bank of the Linggi River, across from where the British were stationed. Unfortunately for my ancestor the British had received artillery reinforcements which blasted Yamtuan Antah’s men out of their camps, leading to a successful British counterattack (which included the deployment of Gurkhas) and ultimately the capture of Seri Menanti.

From the high vantage point of the new Bukit Putus bypass – opened a few days ago – you can just imagine the movements and positions of the men, gunpowder smoke further obscuring the limited view through the dense jungle. There must have been numerous men who fell to ignominious deaths here, and yet it was for a battle upon this hill that a Victoria Cross was bestowed upon a British soldier.

Yamtuan Antah did later return to Seri Menanti, and his relationship with the British improved. Both sides recognised that a win-win solution was possible with increased economic opportunities and political stability. However, an epidemic of smallpox claimed Yamtuan Antah’s life, which meant that it was during the reign of his son, Tuanku Muhammad, that Negri Sembilan was restored as a unified kingdom.

Tuanku Muhammad enjoyed a good working relationship with the British, which facilitated the further development of the state. Negri Sembilan, together with Perak, Selangor and Pahang, formed the Federated Malay States, but Tuanku Muhammad was always careful that the independence of Negri Sembilan was safeguarded. He also played a leading role not only in the construction of the two official palaces in Seri Menanti still standing – the Istana Lama and the Istana Besar – but also in the establishment of two institutions which continue to shine in Malaysia: the Royal Malay Regiment and the Malay College Kuala Kangsar.

My great-uncle Tunku Datuk Seri Adnan Tunku Besar Burhanuddin remembers how he used to accompany Tuanku Muhammad to events and games, and regularly received 20 cents pocket money. Tunku Adnan was five years old when Tuanku Muhammad passed away in the Istana Besar, but he vividly remembers the sights and sounds of those days.

Tuanku Abdul Rahman’s reign saw the British Resident model being interrupted by World War Two and the subsequent dismantlement of the British Empire. He survived both the Japanese Occupation and a murder attempt by communists. He vigorously opposed the Malayan Union – like his father, keen to protect the unique institutions of Negri Sembilan – and went on to reign as the first Yang di-Pertuan Agong of the Federation of Malaya after being elected by his brother Rulers to that position. Tuanku Abdul Rahman passed away in the Istana Negara on April 1, 1960. It was the country’s first state funeral, and his coffin was taken by train from Kuala Lumpur to Seremban and then by road to Seri Menanti.

Although Tuanku Munawir’s reign was not long, he had already served as regent while his father was serving as Agong, and thus had presided over the state’s post-Merdeka development. He had enabled a new school to open in the Istana Lama itself, and he officiated the opening of Tunku Kurshiah College. He had a reputation for being close to the rakyat – there are pictures of him picnicking with his subjects – but he also loved his animals, which included a bear and two elephants.

I grew up during the reign of Tuanku Ja’afar, during which the state continued to develop drastically: in terms of infrastructure as well as demographically. Not only does Seremban now sprawl into numerous suburbs but many people today commute to Kuala Lumpur from Seremban on a daily basis. I met Tuanku Ja’afar every Hari Raya Aidilfitri at least: he was a kind Ruler who cared deeply about the rakyat, and the state was rightly in grave mourning after his demise last year.

Tuanku Muhammad (seated far left) attending a Durbar in the 1930s.

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In the Abiding Times of Nov 14, 2008, I stated that it was an eventful year for democracy. I cited three elections which signalled change in their respective countries: the election of Barack Obama as president of the United States, the election of Boris Johnson as Mayor of London and the Malaysian general election of March 8. For me there was to be another: the election of Tuanku Muhriz as Yang di-Pertuan Besar of Negri Sembilan on Dec 29, 2008.

I will never forget the events leading up to the proclamation. One day I may write about them. But not today. This week the ceremonies of the Installation of Tuanku Muhriz will take place in Seri Menanti. It is a celebration that has not been seen for 41 years, and I hope that all communities in Negri Sembilan will join us in the various events that have been organised for the public in the field between the Istana Lama and Istana Besar. For my part, the books are printed and the choirs are ready.

Daulat Tuanku!

Tunku Zain Al-’Abidin is Tuanku Muhriz’s second son. Comments: letters@thesundaily.com .